The Caminho hit us with a good left hook today and sent us to the mat. We got up and we'll fight another day - actually tomorrow - but we took a beating today.
The guidebook map took some liberties but by asking several bread delivery men, we found the Porta de Santiago, the gate the pilgrims have been leaving town through for many hundreds of years. You do get a sense of history walking through that gate and down the hill, then you get a confusion when you hit the road below. There are some arrows but none in places that you expect there to be. If you follow us, follow the arrows and have faith. Where you think you should turn, don't. Where the road splits, follow the bigger road. Aim to go through Ribeira de Santarem across the railroad tracks next to the station then left at the end of the road. The arrows are better after that. Sort of. In another kilometer or two, there is a house where you are supposed to go behind for a 3.4km walk along farm trails. The house was obvious because of the yellow X on the post just after it but I know three groups of pilgrims who looked for the trail and could not find it. That meant a 4km slog on a road just wide enough for two cars to pass. It wasn't, however, built for all the trucks and the occasional pilgrims.
When the trail crossed the road again, we rejoined it. There were several confusing arrows and none in a few places they were greatly needed but we found the right way then went back to draw arrows in the dirt / mud for those behind us. After a lovely breakfast in Vale de Figueira, we made it as far along the Caminho as the Quinta (farm), 4.6km of the way to Bosque. After the Quinta, the arrows were much better. Too much better. Inigo (the Spanish Olympian who turns out to be just a nice, fit young guy) and the five Belgians (formerly known as "The Europeans") all ended up in the same lousy café in Pombalinho. Ummm. Where?
At the entry to the glorious town of Pombalinho, there is an official looking sign welcoming pilgrims as well as a map that details the routes of the two dueling arrows in front of it, pointing in opposite directions. One route bypasses both their lovely city as well as Azinhaga, the next town with accommodations and food. The other route shows the way through the center of both towns. The main problem was that we actually a few kilometers away from where we should be, according to the guide book and common sense. The Caminho doesn't go near either route on the map, nor anywhere near Pombalinho. Buggers. The café does not even serve food either.
Having already a few kilometers more than needed, having to do two more to get back of track in Azinhaga, then another 8-10km to get to our original goal of Golega, we decided to stop in the fancy Casa de Azinhaga for the night. Google it. It's cool although at €70 per double room with breakfast is a tad much for the Caminho. The swimming pool out back helps sooth the hit to the wallet though.
On the trail, Melanie was ahead of Inigo and me when a farmer passed. He offered her one of the melons he was hauling. She thanked him profusely but declined as she didn't want to carry it. Duh! He then drove straight passed me, then Inigo with barely a wave. The three of us could have happily split the melon there and then! The Caminho provides but sometimes we refuse to see the provision.
As my mind bounces around, I'm also reminded of all the passing drivers when we are walking on these country roads. I wave to each one coming towards us and a good deal less than half wave back. I know we're not in rural Ireland (where kids run out of houses to wave to passing drivers and the drivers always wave back), but it doesn't take much effort to lift half a hand off the steering wheel, does it?
The destination for tomorrow is no longer Tomar. At least there are a few options to stop before there although it will be a short two days with Tomar about 40km away and a must stop place.
Other fun facts for Azinhaga: there is no wi-fi anywhere in town (so this post comes in a day late). In fact, people look at us like we're crazy for asking about it. One woman said that there was a man who lived down the road who had a computer and we may want to ask him. Another fun fact: Monday is a bad day to be here. There is only one restaurant in town and they are closed on Mondays. There are three cafés but only one of them serves food other than Snickers Bars and potato chips (crisps). The one that serves food has a short menu: sandwiches. Your choice: ham, cheese or both and, by the way, they are out of cheese. Fun fact #3, cafés are really taverns and only for men. Only men sit outside or inside the main café. We got kicked into the back room with drawn curtains stopping Melanie from seeing or being seen. Fun fact #4, our hostess said that breakfast would be ready any time we liked, even for early rising pilgrims. She is true to her word. By 4pm this afternoon, orange juice, yogurt, bread, butter, ham and cheese were already laid on the table for tomorrow's breakfast. Oh my.
The guidebook map took some liberties but by asking several bread delivery men, we found the Porta de Santiago, the gate the pilgrims have been leaving town through for many hundreds of years. You do get a sense of history walking through that gate and down the hill, then you get a confusion when you hit the road below. There are some arrows but none in places that you expect there to be. If you follow us, follow the arrows and have faith. Where you think you should turn, don't. Where the road splits, follow the bigger road. Aim to go through Ribeira de Santarem across the railroad tracks next to the station then left at the end of the road. The arrows are better after that. Sort of. In another kilometer or two, there is a house where you are supposed to go behind for a 3.4km walk along farm trails. The house was obvious because of the yellow X on the post just after it but I know three groups of pilgrims who looked for the trail and could not find it. That meant a 4km slog on a road just wide enough for two cars to pass. It wasn't, however, built for all the trucks and the occasional pilgrims.
When the trail crossed the road again, we rejoined it. There were several confusing arrows and none in a few places they were greatly needed but we found the right way then went back to draw arrows in the dirt / mud for those behind us. After a lovely breakfast in Vale de Figueira, we made it as far along the Caminho as the Quinta (farm), 4.6km of the way to Bosque. After the Quinta, the arrows were much better. Too much better. Inigo (the Spanish Olympian who turns out to be just a nice, fit young guy) and the five Belgians (formerly known as "The Europeans") all ended up in the same lousy café in Pombalinho. Ummm. Where?
At the entry to the glorious town of Pombalinho, there is an official looking sign welcoming pilgrims as well as a map that details the routes of the two dueling arrows in front of it, pointing in opposite directions. One route bypasses both their lovely city as well as Azinhaga, the next town with accommodations and food. The other route shows the way through the center of both towns. The main problem was that we actually a few kilometers away from where we should be, according to the guide book and common sense. The Caminho doesn't go near either route on the map, nor anywhere near Pombalinho. Buggers. The café does not even serve food either.
Having already a few kilometers more than needed, having to do two more to get back of track in Azinhaga, then another 8-10km to get to our original goal of Golega, we decided to stop in the fancy Casa de Azinhaga for the night. Google it. It's cool although at €70 per double room with breakfast is a tad much for the Caminho. The swimming pool out back helps sooth the hit to the wallet though.
On the trail, Melanie was ahead of Inigo and me when a farmer passed. He offered her one of the melons he was hauling. She thanked him profusely but declined as she didn't want to carry it. Duh! He then drove straight passed me, then Inigo with barely a wave. The three of us could have happily split the melon there and then! The Caminho provides but sometimes we refuse to see the provision.
As my mind bounces around, I'm also reminded of all the passing drivers when we are walking on these country roads. I wave to each one coming towards us and a good deal less than half wave back. I know we're not in rural Ireland (where kids run out of houses to wave to passing drivers and the drivers always wave back), but it doesn't take much effort to lift half a hand off the steering wheel, does it?
The destination for tomorrow is no longer Tomar. At least there are a few options to stop before there although it will be a short two days with Tomar about 40km away and a must stop place.
Other fun facts for Azinhaga: there is no wi-fi anywhere in town (so this post comes in a day late). In fact, people look at us like we're crazy for asking about it. One woman said that there was a man who lived down the road who had a computer and we may want to ask him. Another fun fact: Monday is a bad day to be here. There is only one restaurant in town and they are closed on Mondays. There are three cafés but only one of them serves food other than Snickers Bars and potato chips (crisps). The one that serves food has a short menu: sandwiches. Your choice: ham, cheese or both and, by the way, they are out of cheese. Fun fact #3, cafés are really taverns and only for men. Only men sit outside or inside the main café. We got kicked into the back room with drawn curtains stopping Melanie from seeing or being seen. Fun fact #4, our hostess said that breakfast would be ready any time we liked, even for early rising pilgrims. She is true to her word. By 4pm this afternoon, orange juice, yogurt, bread, butter, ham and cheese were already laid on the table for tomorrow's breakfast. Oh my.
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The Porta de Santiago, Santarem, A gate that pilgrims have been using for centuries to leave the city, heading north to Santiago |
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Heading down from Santarem hill early in the morning, a beautiful trail through the woods and through history |
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The 16th century ruins of St. Sebastian's chapel near the entrance to Azinhaga (I think) |
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Melanie with the famous Portuguese writer, Jose Salamago, in his hometown of Azinhaga |
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